the Vršič pass and the Soča valley
Today, we head toward the Soča Valley from Kranjska Gora, taking the spectacular Vršič Pass. This iconic route, which reaches an altitude of 1,611 meters, is not only a connection between these two stunning regions but also a true feast for the eyes, promising an unforgettable adventure with every kilometer.
We will spend four nights in Bovec, at the heart of the Soča Valley, the perfect base to explore this wild and beautiful part of Triglav National Park.
– For our complete Slovenia itinerary, click here: Two Weeks in Slovenia: Itinerary, Tips and Advice –
How to Get to Bovec?
From Ljubljana
From Ljubljana, the most direct route to reach the Soča Valley without crossing Austria or Italy goes through Tolmin. This journey takes you through charming, verdant hills and small picturesque villages, offering a first glimpse of rural Slovenia before reaching the valley and following the crystal-clear waters of the Soča River.
From downtown Ljubljana, take the highway towards Postojna. Then, exit at Logatec – Tolmin and continue on road 102, following signs for Idrija, then Tolmin, and finally Kobarid. In Kobarid, leave road 102 and follow signs for Bovec, where the Soča Valley fully reveals its breathtaking landscapes.
– To read the full article on Ljubljana, click here: A Weekend in Ljubljana –
From Kransjka Gora
We circled around the Triglav National Park from the east, first passing through Kranjska Gora before reaching Bovec and the Soča Valley.
From Kranjska Gora, take Route 206 to ascend to Vršič Pass, the highest mountain pass in Slovenia. This spectacular road winds through the mountains, offering breathtaking views, especially of the Julian Alps peaks. However, be cautious as the Vršič Pass road is winding, with numerous hairpin bends, which can be challenging, especially in winter. Once you’ve crossed the pass, you’ll descend toward Bovec, where the Soča Valley truly begins.
For our stay in Slovenia, we rented a car from Renty, a Slovenian car rental company based in Ljubljana, which we chose for its flexibility and competitive rates.
– To discover our day in Kranjska Gora, click here: The Northern Part of Triglav National Park –
Where to Stay in Bovec?
Bovec is an excellent base for exploring the Soča Valley and its surroundings. Located in the heart of the Julian Alps, the town provides privileged access to some of the valley's most beautiful sites, including the turquoise waters of the Soča River, numerous waterfalls, and hiking trails in Triglav National Park. Staying in Bovec also allows you to enjoy a variety of outdoor activities, such as rafting, kayaking, canyoning, and even paragliding to take in the stunning landscapes from above.
The town offers a wide range of accommodations, from comfortable hotels to charming apartments and guesthouses, as well as campsites for nature lovers. We chose an Airbnb located in the heart of the town.
Things to do in Bovec
The Vršič Pass
From Kranjska Gora, we take the road towards the Vršič Pass. This winding and picturesque route offers breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, with panoramas that change with every turn. The ascent winds through stunning alpine landscapes, dotted with lush forests and flower-filled meadows. On our way, we stop at the Russian chapel, a small wooden structure nestled at the roadside. This chapel, simple and moving, was built by Russian prisoners of war during World War I, in honor of their comrades who died in avalanches while constructing the pass road. It is a place steeped in history that recalls the harsh conditions of the time and the resilience of the men who worked on this treacherous road.
We continue our ascent on this winding road that snakes through the mountains. With every turn, the panoramas unfold, more spectacular than the last. The majestic mountains rise around us, and we stop several times to admire the raw beauty of nature. The grey, barren peaks contrast with the lush valleys below. The silence is almost absolute, only disturbed by the wind rustling through the trees or the bleating of a sheep.
After these moments of wonder, we continue our climb to the Vršič Pass, which rises to over 1600 meters in altitude. Once we arrive, we park the car and head to admire the famous ‘face in the mountain.’ This is a natural rock formation called Ajdovska Deklica, or ‘the pagan girl.’ The rock, sculpted by the wind and time, strangely resembles a human face frozen in the mountain. According to legend, this face belongs to a giantess who had the power to predict the future but was petrified for betraying her people. The face, mysterious and almost ghostly, adds a legendary touch to this already impressive landscape.
The views from the pass are simply spectacular. A dizzying panorama opens up, with mountains, valleys, and in the distance, we can even glimpse the Soča Valley, still bathed in light. However, as we linger to admire the landscape, the sky gradually darkens. The clouds become heavy and threatening, and we wisely decide not to venture on a hike.
We begin the descent towards the Soča Valley, but halfway down, the storm breaks. The first drops quickly turn into a torrential downpour. The roads become slippery, and the rain beats violently against the car windows. We stop at a small restaurant to take shelter and have lunch, hoping the storm will ease. The sound of the rain on the wooden roof of the restaurant adds a unique ambiance to our meal.
Once the rain has dissipated, we resume our journey towards Bovec, where we have booked an Airbnb. This small village, nestled between the mountains, exudes tranquility. Bovec is known as the starting point for many outdoor activities like rafting and canyoning, but after this eventful day, we choose to take a peaceful walk through the streets. The alpine houses with wooden roofs and flower-filled balconies line the alleyways, and the atmosphere is calm, almost drowsy after the storm. We wander through the small squares, discover a few local shops, and savor the gentle evening light before returning to our accommodation for a restful evening.
The Soča Spring, Velika Korita and Mala Korita
The next day, we dive deeper into the exploration of the Soča Valley, discovering its impressive gorges and tracing the path up to its crystal-clear source. To conclude the day, we'll enjoy a peaceful stroll through the Zadnjica Valley, surrounded by majestic mountains and pristine nature.
Essential Tips
Parking: Free – available along the road near each point of interest. GPS coordinates for the trailhead to the source of the Soča: 46°24'33.2"N, 13°43'32.2"E.
Hike in the Zadnjica Valley: About 3 km round trip, an easy and accessible route for everyone, perfect for a peaceful walk in nature.
We begin our exploration of the Soča Valley by visiting its gorges: Velika Korita and Mala Korita (which mean "big" and "small" gorges in Slovenian, respectively). Unlike the Vintgar Gorge, these are much less developed, giving them a more wild and natural appearance. We walk along a dirt path that winds along the top of the gorges, without railings or wooden walkways. At times, the trail opens up to spectacular viewpoints, revealing the turquoise waters of the Soča rushing between the rocky walls.
– To discover more Slovenian gorges, click here: Lake Bled and the Vintgar gorges –
We explore the gorges in several stages, stopping by car at various access points to discover new perspectives. Each time we stop, the water's color seems more surreal, a turquoise so pure it almost seems to emanate from the light itself. During a well-deserved break on the banks, we can't resist dipping our feet into the icy, crystal-clear water, savoring the coolness on this hot day.
After exploring the gorges, we head towards the Soča spring. We park the car near an inn, which marks the starting point of the trail leading to the source. Although the path is short – only a 15-minute walk – it quickly becomes more technical. It climbs through rocks, and some sections, steep and narrow, may be intimidating for those who suffer from vertigo.
Reaching at the spring, we are struck by the breathtaking beauty of the place. Nestled between two rocky cliffs, the water is an even more vivid blue, almost surreal, as if a spotlight is bathing it in light from deep below. We take a moment to admire this natural spectacle before carefully making our way back down the trail. On our way, we’re lucky enough to spot a small deer in the underbrush, adding a magical touch to our morning.
Zadnjica Valley
In the afternoon, we continue our exploration towards the peaceful Zadnjica Valley, where we stroll through landscapes of lush green meadows, surrounded by towering mountains. It’s a beautiful break after the intensity of the morning, and the perfect setting to recharge in the tranquility of the area.
A Half-day of rafting on the Soča river
The next morning, we have an appointment with Soča Splash for a morning of rafting on the Soča River! Since our arrival in Bovec, this activity has been one of the highlights we were most looking forward to: nothing like a descent on the water to get the adrenaline pumping.
Essential Tips
Prices: For updated prices, visit the official website of Soča Splash.
Difficulty level: Suitable for beginners and children.
Duration: About 1h30 on the water, with a total duration of 2h30, including preparations.
Parking: Parking in Bovec is paid and regulated. However, we have access to a private parking space at our Airbnb residence, making our stay more convenient.
We meet in the center of Bovec and get to know four other participants who will join us for the adventure. The group is friendly, and the excitement builds when we receive our equipment.
After a safety briefing where our guide goes over the basics of rafting and how to maneuver, we head to the starting point. Although this descent is accessible to everyone and the rapids are relatively mild, we don't hold back on the fun! Between paddle strokes and splashes, the morning turns out to be invigorating and a lot of fun. Our guide takes care of steering the raft, allowing us to fully enjoy the experience and let ourselves be carried by the swirls of the Soča.
Several times, we stop to jump from the rocks into the river or turn our raft into an impromptu slide, laughing and sliding like children. The turquoise, crystal-clear water, despite its chill, makes each plunge unforgettable. It’s a lighthearted and joyful morning, a real change of pace after the hikes, leaving us with a smile on our faces for the rest of the day.
Virje Waterfall
In the afternoon, we decide to stroll through the center of Bovec, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere. The streets are lined with small sports and outdoor activity shops, lively cafés, and local stalls, giving this mountain village a peaceful yet vibrant vibe.
After a coffee and a bit of wandering, we head towards the Virje waterfall, located about 4 km from Bovec. The walk is pleasant, following paths lined with fields and meadows, with the mountains as a backdrop. After about thirty minutes, we begin our descent towards the waterfall, but we’re not the only ones who had this idea: in the middle of the afternoon, the place is quite busy.
The Virje waterfall is not very tall, but it stands out with its unique charm. The water flows in multiple streams, creating small cascades that gently fall into a basin with emerald green reflections. The water’s branches form sparkling curtains, and the small lake below invites relaxation. We take a moment to admire this enchanting spot before deciding to continue on our way.
To switch things up a bit, we take a path that climbs to the right of the waterfall, steeper and less marked. The ascent is intense, and we can feel our legs working! Once we reach the top, we rejoin our original route and make our way back to Bovec, delighted with this little adventure.
Boka Waterfall
The following day begins with an ascent towards the spectacular Boka Waterfall. Upon reaching the parking lot, we can already spot this immense waterfall nestled between the rocky cliffs. It seems almost inaccessible from the road, its width and impressive height gradually revealed as we move through the valley.
Essential Tips
Parking: Free – located on the other side of the Boka River, opposite the starting point of the trail.
Prices and opening hours: Access to the waterfall is free and open year-round.
Hike: Approximately 3 km round trip, with a positive elevation gain of 500 m, of moderate difficulty.
We cross a bridge that spans the Boka River, its clear water flowing at a tranquil pace, contrasting with the power of the waterfall we can see in the distance. Our goal is to climb to the other side of the valley for the best vantage point of this natural beauty. The trail starts in full sunlight, offering unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains, before weaving into the shade of a dense forest.
The path is demanding, steeply climbing over a short distance. The ascent is felt in our legs, but the shade of the trees and the cool air keep us going. Finally, we reach the viewpoint, and the spectacle makes the effort worthwhile: Boka stretches out in a massive curtain of white water, cascading powerfully against the gray cliffs. Despite the distance, the roar of the water echoes all the way up, a constant rumble that amplifies the grandeur of the place.
We sit in the shade, taking in the breathtaking view while catching our breath. It’s a moment of pure tranquility in the face of nature’s raw power, a suspended moment where the waterfall, with its powerful and constant flow, seems to be the only movement in this frozen landscape.
Kobarid Historical Trail
We then drive down to Kobarid, where we enjoy the last views of the Soča before embarking on the city's historical trail. This route, also called the Kobarid Historical Trail, connects various significant sites in the region, including remnants from World War I, Roman ruins, and impressive panoramas of the valley. It invites the discovery of local history while offering beautiful viewpoints.
After this historical immersion, we hit the road again for the ascent to the Mangart Saddle (or Mangart Pass) this afternoon.
Mangart Saddle
The Mangart Saddle, perched at nearly 2,000 meters above sea level, is one of the most spectacular mountain passes in Slovenia. Accessible via a winding and narrow road dotted with tunnels, it offers stunning views of the peaks of the Julian Alps and the Soča Valley. This pass, which marks the border between Slovenia and Italy, is popular among lovers of alpine landscapes and hikers, especially for access to Mount Mangart, one of Slovenia’s highest peaks. However, the road is demanding and is only open during the summer season; it can be closed due to weather conditions. For those who reach the summit, the reward is a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains, extending as far as the Dolomites on clear days.
– For the full article, click here: Mangart Saddle –
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