A Weekend in Ljubljana

We visited Ljubljana during our two-week stay in Slovenia. We spent nearly three days in this charming, human-scale capital and thoroughly enjoyed its relaxed, inviting atmosphere. Its cobblestone streets and colorful facades line the Ljubljanica River, creating a serene and laid-back vibe at every turn. Here, time seems to flow gently, and the warm ambiance of its cafés and open-air markets makes you want to linger, far removed from the hustle and bustle of larger cities.

For our complete Slovenia itinerary, click here: Two Weeks in Slovenia: Itinerary, Tips and Advice

Essential Tips

Guide (FR): Slovénie Secrète – an essential resource for exploring the country in depth.

Parking: P+R Barje – Parking in the city can be a challenge, but peripheral park-and-ride options like this one are an excellent solution. The price is affordable and includes two bus tickets to reach the city center. We chose this parking lot based on its proximity to our Airbnb.

Favorite Restaurant: Dežela Okusov, featuring a 100% gluten-free menu in the charming Krakovo neighborhood.

Viewpoints: Don’t miss the view from Castle Hill and the rooftop of Nebotičnik, offering stunning perspectives of Ljubljana from different angles.

How to Get to Ljubljana?

Getting to Slovenia from Belgium or France is relatively easy, with several transportation options available:

  • Plane : Direct flights are available to Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, from various major cities, making it the fastest way to reach the country. Once there, renting a car is simple and provides the flexibility to explore surrounding areas.
  • Night train : Another option is taking an overnight train to Vienna, from where you can rent a car to continue your journey into Slovenia. Be sure to check train schedules and availability, as they may vary (check the official NightJet website). And note that you’ll need a toll sticker to drive on Austrian highways!
  • Car: For those who prefer the freedom of a road trip, driving to Slovenia is an excellent choice. From Belgium or France, you can follow highways, which also offer beautiful views along the way. The trip typically takes between 10 and 15 hours, depending on your starting point and stops.

We flew in from Brussels and rented a car at the airport from Renty, a Slovenian car rental company based in Ljubljana. We chose them for their flexibility and competitive rates.

Where to Stay in Ljubljana?

In Ljubljana, choosing the right neighborhood to stay in can greatly enhance your experience of the city. The historic center, with its charming streets, baroque buildings, and numerous attractions, is the perfect place for those who want to be at the heart of the action. Here, you’ll find plenty of cafés, restaurants, and shops, as well as iconic sites like Ljubljana Castle and the Dragon Bridge.

For a more bohemian and artistic atmosphere, the Šiška and Metelkova neighborhoods, known for their vibrant nightlife and cultural spaces, are excellent choices. They offer a unique vibe, with galleries, bars, and an alternative scene that attracts young people and creatives.

If you prefer a more peaceful and green setting, consider the Tivoli neighborhood, which surrounds the park of the same name. It’s an ideal spot for families or couples seeking tranquility, while still being close to the city center. Lastly, the Trnovo neighborhood, along the Ljubljanica River, combines residential charm with easy access to attractions, offering beautiful river views and pleasant walks. Whichever neighborhood you choose, Ljubljana will captivate you with its friendliness and warm atmosphere.

We chose an ideally located Airbnb in the historic center, on Levstikov Trg, at the foot of Castle Hill.

Must-See in Ljubljana

The Eipprova Ulica Neighborhood and Špica Park

We arrived in the Slovenian capital late in the afternoon. As soon as we dropped our bags at the Airbnb, we headed out to make the most of the fading daylight. We decided to venture away from the center, saving it for the next day, and walked along the Ljubljanica River towards Špica Park, where we stopped for a drink while watching a family of nutria playfully splashing around in the river.

The sun slowly sets on the horizon as we cross the river to have dinner at one of the restaurants along Eipprova ulica, a neighborhood recommended by the excellent Slovénie Secrète. We don’t regret our choice: Dežela Okusov, the restaurant we decide to stop at, is absolutely delightful. The cuisine is simple yet refined, and 100% gluten-free! A real treat.

Coucher de soleil sur Eipprova ulica
Ragondin de la Ljubljanica
Coucher de soleil sur la Ljubljanica depuis le parc Spica

Ljubljana Castle

For our first (real) day in Ljubljana, we decide to visit the castle, a must-see in the city, perched on a hill overlooking the Slovenian capital. To reach it, we climb the charming Gornji Trg street, lined with pastel-colored buildings and small terraces, perfect for stopping and enjoying a coffee.

Les maisons pastel de Gornji trg

Upon reaching the castle, we take the time to explore its ramparts and enjoy the panoramic view of Ljubljana. The city unfolds before us, with its red rooftops and cobblestone streets. In the distance, we spot the St. Nicholas Cathedral, with its striking green dome. We also learn about the fascinating history of Ljubljana, shaped by the renowned architect Jože Plečnik, a true icon of the city. This master of modern architecture is behind many buildings, including the famous Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) and the magnificent National Library.

Vue sur les toits de Ljubljana en montant à la colline du chateau
Un joli café sur Gornji trg
Vue sur les toits de Ljubljana en montant à la colline du chateau

Ljubljana Central Market

After taking in the view, we descend from the other side of the castle, heading towards the Central Market. Along the way, we pass local artisans and artists displaying their creations. Once we reach the square, the lively atmosphere is palpable: the colorful stalls offer fresh produce, Slovenian specialties, and handmade souvenirs.

We wander along the stalls, enjoying the joyful atmosphere and savoring every moment. We then enter the covered market, whose hidden entrance is located on the square (thank you for the tip Slovénie Secrète), where we buy some cheese for later, as well as a burek to enjoy right away. This traditional dish, of Balkan origin and widely loved in several Eastern European countries, including Slovenia, is a savory puff pastry, often rolled into a spiral or shaped into a triangle. Stuffed with meat, cheese, or sometimes vegetables, the burek is hearty and perfect for a quick lunch on the go!

Dragon Bridge and Trubarjeva Cesta

With our stomachs satisfied, we cross the Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most) to admire the elegant arcades of the covered market (another masterpiece by Plečnik) from the opposite bank. The dragon statues, guarding the bridge, add a mythical touch to our stroll. Once across, we head into the Trubarjeva Cesta neighborhood, known for its alternative atmosphere.

Le ponts aux dragons, Ljubljana, Slovénie

This vibrant street is a true haven of creativity, lined with artisanal shops, trendy cafes, and art galleries. As we wander, we discover colorful street art adorning the walls, telling stories and expressing emotions. The lively murals add a contemporary touch to the city, making this neighborhood a meeting point between tradition and modernity.

Prešeren Square and Triple Bridge

After exploring this artistic side of Ljubljana, we retrace our steps to reach Prešeren Square. In the heart of this expansive plaza, we soak in the lively atmosphere while admiring the majestic statue of France Prešeren, Slovenia's national poet. The square is a bustling meeting point where locals and visitors alike cross paths.

Opposite, connecting the right bank of the Ljubljanica to the old town, we discover the Triple Bridge, yet another piece by Jože Plečnik. As its name suggests, it consists of three distinct bridges. These are adorned with stone balustrades and Art Nouveau lampposts, giving them a unique elegance. We take our time crossing, admiring the boats gently gliding along the river and the colorful façades surrounding it. It's a perfect spot for photos, as the view is truly picturesque.

Place Preseren vue depuis le triple pont, Ljubljana
Bâtiment baroque sur la place Preseren, Ljubljana
Vue depuis le rooftop terrasse du Neboticnik, Ljubljana

The Best Viewpoint in Ljubljana

To end our day on a high note, we head to the rooftop of the Nebotičnik, a skyscraper known for its stunning view of the city. The atmosphere is both lively and relaxed, and we enjoy a drink while taking in the sight of the castle hill, where our day had begun. With our minds full of memories, we return to our Airbnb, already eager to discover more of this city that has charmed us so much.

Ljubljana Off the Beaten Path and Tivoli Park

Our second day in Ljubljana begins with a pleasant stroll along the right bank of the Ljubljanica. The sun bathes the pastel-colored facades of the buildings lining the river. We walk along the quays, enjoying the fresh morning air, and stop at a riverside terrace for a coffee. Motorboats glide smoothly across the water, while groups of ducks bask in the sun. This part of the city is less crowded, allowing us to savor each moment in peaceful solitude.

Vue sur les maison colorées qui bordent la Ljubljanica
Križevniška ulica, une charmante ruelle fleurie à Ljubljana
Vue sur la place Preseren

We then head towards the Tivoli Park, the true green lung of Ljubljana. Walking along the river, we reach Križevniška ulica, a charming flower-lined street that leads to Krizanke, a former monastery now transformed into an open-air theater. On our way, we pass through the French Revolution Square and admire the National Library of Ljubljana (Jože Plečnik’s most important work in Slovenia).

We then head up to Prešernova cesta, where elegant Austro-Hungarian style buildings line the street, before reaching Tivoli Park. As soon as we enter, we are greeted by a vast green space scattered with beautiful gardens, sculptures, and winding paths. It’s the perfect place to get lost in nature while staying close to the city center. Venturing further, we discover the Jakopič Gallery, famous for its contemporary art exhibitions, and the lovely tree-lined avenues that invite strolling. We pass joggers and families enjoying the park, adding to the lively and friendly atmosphere of this green haven.

After a long walk in the park, we head back down to the city center and make our way to the Krakovo district. This picturesque neighborhood is known for its charming, brightly colored houses and vegetable gardens.

Eglise rose dans le parc Tivoli
Les petites maisons pastel de Krakovo, Ljubljana
Les jardins potagers de Krakovo, Ljubljana

Back in the heart of Ljubljana, we dive into the old town, a true maze of cobblestone streets and historic buildings. Every corner reveals a new surprise, whether it's a baroque church, an art gallery, or a craft shop.

The day ends with a peaceful stroll along the Ljubljanica, where we admire the reflection of the city lights on the water. The atmosphere is magical, and we realize just how well Ljubljana blends history, culture, and nature.

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