A Day of Hiking in the Velika Planina Alpine Pastures
Hiking in the Velika Planina alpine pasture is a true invitation to discover a preserved mountain world, where nature and tradition meet. Perched at 1,500 meters above sea level, this area offers spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, lush meadows, and the charming wooden cabins scattered across the landscape. Far from the crowds, Velika Planina is the perfect place to escape and enjoy the tranquility of the mountains. Whether you're an avid hiker or a nature lover seeking serenity, this hike will immerse you in a captivating setting of forests, meadows, and small alpine villages. It’s an authentic experience in the heart of the Slovenian Alps, where every step brings you closer to the raw beauty of this unique pasture.
Our day starts early, under a gray sky. We head to Velika Planina from Ljubljana, where we've just spent three days (to read the full article: A Weekend in Ljubljana). While it’s possible to stay overnight, we’ve chosen a day trip, as this option, although tempting, comes at a certain cost.
– For our complete Slovenia itinerary, click here: Two Weeks in Slovenia: Itinerary, Tips and Advice –
Essential Tips
Guide (FR): Slovénie Secrète – an essential resource for exploring the country in depth.
Car Rental: We chose to rent a car from Renty, a Slovenian rental service based in Ljubljana, for flexibility and favorable rates.
Weather: The webcams installed on the plateau are especially useful for checking the weather conditions at the summit, which can be quite different from those observed in the valley.
Map: The Maps.me app, is essential during my hikes in the great outdoors, and is always with me.
Hike: About 15 km with an elevation gain of 400 m to reach the plateau. Once there, the terrain becomes relatively flat and pleasant to explore.
Highlights: Mala Planina, Velika Planina, and Gojška Planina.
How to Get to Velika Planina?
Reaching Velika Planina by Cable Car
To reach Velika Planina, take the cable car from the charming village of Kamniška Bistrica, located just 30 minutes by car from Ljubljana. In just a few minutes, you’ll be transported into the heart of the alpine landscape. Once at the top, a chairlift will take you even closer to the plateau, where a short hike awaits to reach the picturesque alpine village of Velika Planina, nestled in a lush green setting.
You can leave your car in the paid parking lot located at the base of the cable car (GPS coordinates: 46°18’22.0″N 14°36’34.2″E). From Ljubljana, head to Kamnik and follow the signs for Kamniška Bistrica – Gornji Grad. In the village of Stahovica (after 6 km), the road turns left, and from there, just follow the signs for Kamniška Bistrica and the lower cable car station. After 4 km, you’ll notice a parking lot on the right, and on the left, you’ll find the ticket office and the entire cable car station entrance. For more information, and to check the latest rates and cable car schedules, I invite you to visit the official Velika Planina website.
Reaching Velika Planina by car and a hike
If you prefer to hike, start by driving to the Volovljek pass. A paid parking lot is available along the road, a little downhill from the start of the trail leading to Velika Planina (GPS coordinates: 46°17’17.2″N 14°40’37.4″E). We were supposed to pay to park, but when we arrived, we found no one and no payment machine. This happened to us frequently during our stay in Slovenia: paid parking seems to depend on the presence of an on-site attendant, and we rarely came across anyone.
To reach the start of the hike from Ljubljana, head to Kamnik and follow the signs for Kamniška Bistrica – Gornji Grad until you reach the village of Stahovica. Here, the route diverges from the one leading to the base of the cable car. In Stahovica, do not follow the direction for Kamniška Bistrica or Velika Planina; stay on the main road (route 225) towards Gornji Grad. Continue on this road until you reach the village of Podlom. A sign for Velika Planina will guide you towards a road that climbs to your left (route 924). Then follow the sign for Velika Planina, which will direct you to another fork to the left, just after an inn along the road. You will take a winding road that snakes through the trees until you reach a parking lot equipped with restrooms and an informational sign about nearby hikes.
The Ascent to Mala Planina
From the parking lot where we parked our car, we walk about 200 meters on the paved road before taking the well-marked trail that climbs to our left. A light, cool breeze accompanies us as we begin our ascent. Even in the middle of summer, it's important to remember that we are at high altitude, and the temperature drops quickly.
The mountain trail passes through meadows and forests where the sound of birdsong and the rustling of leaves immerse us in the tranquility of nature. The path first takes us to Mala Planina, the smallest of the three plains that make up the plateau (in Slovenian, mala means "small" and planina means "mountain pasture" or "plateau"). It stretches out like a postcard of greenery, dotted with wooden cabins scattered across the slopes.
Mala Planina is a true haven of peace, with its traditional wooden chalets with sloping roofs, used by shepherds during the summer season. The landscape, full of serenity, is punctuated by cows leisurely grazing in the fields, giving the impression that time slows down here. We take a break to admire the view stretching over the valleys below and the surrounding mountains.
Velika Planina and its famous wooden church
After this stop, we continue our hike towards Velika Planina, the largest and most famous of the three plains (in Slovenian, velika means "big"). As we progress, the landscape opens up and reveals an immense plain dotted with typical pastoral huts, featuring unique architecture with their wooden fir roofs that seem to float above the ground. Some of these huts are still used today by shepherds for cheese production, and the subtle scent of the meadows accompanies us throughout our walk.
The plateau is vast, offering 360° panoramas of the surrounding peaks. We feel tiny in the face of this wild expanse, where the colors change with the wind and light. The silence is profound, only interrupted by the sound of cowbells ringing in the distance. We stop for a picnic on the grassy slopes, with a breathtaking view of the small wooden church of Velika Planina, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows. Nestled in the heart of the plateau, this charming chapel, built in the traditional Slovenian mountain style, seems to peacefully watch over its surroundings.
Although modest, the church exudes a peaceful and authentic atmosphere, perfectly in harmony with the pastoral landscape. It serves as a gathering place for shepherds for religious celebrations, especially during the Assumption festival in August. From our spot, we admire its simple yet elegant silhouette, while savoring this moment of serenity in the face of the raw beauty of the mountains.
Discovering Gojška Planina
Our exploration continues towards Gojška Planina, the last of the three plains, more discreet and calmer than its neighbors. Here, the huts seem to almost blend into the landscape, as if they have always been part of this untouched nature. The atmosphere is soothing, conducive to contemplation, with its gentle slopes and less-traveled paths. We encounter a few hikers, but the ambiance remains peaceful, almost intimate.
As we slowly descend back towards the valley, we carry with us the magic of these timeless places, where nature and tradition come together. It is with a sense of fulfillment that we end this day, marked by the wild and authentic beauty of Velika Planina and its neighbors. A little corner of Slovenian paradise that we are unlikely to forget.
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